Landscaping with Woody Herbs

By Joyce Driemeyer

Spicebush - Lindera benzoinAn integral part of landscape design is incorporation of shrubs and trees. Now is a good time to think of how to include woodies on your property. The single most important attribute for consideration is multiseasonal appeal or they do not merit consideration. For example, lilacs have never appealed to me, because except for brief springtime bloom, the plant structure and foliage has no esthetic value and what is more the foliage often mildews in our climate.

The plants I am suggesting all have year-round appeal, because of texture of foliage, ornamental flowering in spring and early summer and beautiful fall coloring. They are all native plants and totally hardy in our sometimes difficult climate. These aren’t dainty little foundation plants – all are beautiful in a shrub border or for screening or accent.

Fringetree - Chionanthus virginicus

Fringetree - Chionanthus virginicus

The fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus) can be a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree. It has always been a special favorite of mine, and many years ago I installed one off the front corner of my house in a partially shaded spot at the foot of a downspout. Because it is a member of the olive family, in late spring it comes into bloom with lovely white, fringed, intensely fragrant flowers that scent up the entire yard. The blooms are on old wood in May/June, and in September bluish drupes (fruit) are produced, which are cherished by birds. The foliage turns a lovely yellow in fall. Historically, native Americans used infusions of the bark to treat malaria and topically for wounds. It attains a height of 10-12 feet, and may grow even higher in certain sites.

The spicebush (Lindera benzoin) is another plant that likes moisture. It gets about 8-feet tall and has fragrant yellow flowers or fragrant twigs. Both flowers, twigs and foliage have been used as a spice and for flavoring tea. Both male and female plants are necessary for production of scarlet berries. Birds love this fruit, and the plant has few pests. Since bloom is on old wood, pruning should be done shortly after flowers fade. In fall, the foliage becomes yellow and can spotlight a naturalized site.

Virginia sweetspire - Itea virginica

Virginia Sweetspire - Itea virginica

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) gets about 5-ft. tall and has arching branches tolerant of part shade or full sun. The fragrant spike-like flowers (racemes) smell of sandalwood and appear in June/July for long bloom. It is loved by bees. Fall foliage is outstanding, ranging from orange to red and lasts into December. The plant is great for massing, likes moisture and does sucker. Prune after bloom. ‘Henry’s Garnet’ is a good cultivar.

With handsome foliage that resembles hawthorn leaves, the stiff-branched black haw (Viburnum prunifolium) makes a great 10-12-ft. statement of its own. Mid-spring bloom consists of rounded white clusters. It is tolerant of sun or light shade. Bluish black fruit loved by birds appear in September/October. The finely toothed foliage changes from bronze to deep red coloration. The bark has had many medicinal uses by native Americans and also in homeopathic medicine. One-caveat – deer love this plant!

Carolina allspice - Calycanthus floridus

Carolina allspice - Calycanthus floridus

Calycanthus floridus, Carolina allspice, as the name suggests, is a lovely shrub possessing fragrant attributes. The maroon straplike flowers in late spring smell of fruit, and the foliage is fragrant when crushed. In fall leaves turn yellow. It can be pruned in late winter, close to ground since bloom forms on new wood. Allow room, shrub grows to 5-6ft. plant close to a sitting area to enjoy its fragrance. At one time, the cinnamon-flavored bark was used for seasoning. Grow in semi shade, morning sun would be perfect.

Sassafras - Sassafras albidum

Sassafras - Sassafras albidum

One of my most favorite trees is our beautiful sassafras (Sassafras albidum). It is beautiful at all times of the year. It is quite difficult to transplant and can be moved only when quite small from a container. Actually, I have successfully transplanted volunteer saplings that were less than 1ft. tall. The trees get 30-60-ft. tall in full sun. Small yellow flowers appear in spring at the ends of twigs before foliage. The distinctive foliage with its mitten-shaped leaves is beautiful indeed, and is attractive to butterflies and moths. Bark and crushed leaves are very aromatic. The bark has been used as a source of orange dye. Young leaves in spring can be gathered and dried, then crushed in a mortar for a source of file powder used in Creole cooking. File is used as a flavor and thickening agent for sauces and liquid. It must not be allowed to boil, however, only stirred into hot liquid. At one time roots were used to make “root beer,” but since they contain safrole, a carcinogen, this practice has been discontinued. The white wood has been used for fence posts, railings and interior woodwork. I have for many years grown a sassafras partially under a pin oak where I have kept it topped and pruned like an umbrella. One is not supposed to top trees, I am well aware, but for this site, it has worked beautifully and I can enjoy it all year from my kitchen window.

Introduce some of our beautiful natives into your landscape.

Joyce Driemeyer says she’s semi-retired after more than 25 years as a professional landscape designer. She is a Master Gardener, and volunteers, lectures and conducts classes at Missouri Botanical Garden, and has actively served in both the St Louis Herb Society and The Herb Society of America.

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Tree Care and Selection

By Cindy Gilberg

Missouri - Tree ToppingMissouri tests our trees with its ice storms, rain storms and high winds. Some of these events have left damaged trees, but, for the most part, healthy, well-maintained trees have survived these tempests. Even so, many homeowners and some tree service companies have chosen to top trees (the severe removal of the top branches in mature trees) to prevent storm damage to houses. Tree topping, however, (also known as studding, heading or lopping) creates weaker branches and potential for diseases that can kill the whole tree. In the long run, especially when the tree dies and needs to be replaced, tree topping can actually cost you more in labor and dollars. If you are considering tree topping, please read on. You may want to consider having your tree evaluated first. It will likely save you money in the long run.

The Missouri Anti-Tree Topping Campaign was formed to provide quality information for anyone who has trees. You can call 1-877-406-6867, talk to a real person (Really! I tried it a number of times) and have information sent.

When you are ready to select a tree care specialist, use only a certified arborist whose job it is to promote a well-maintained, long-lived tree. Proper pruning and care results in a healthy tree that has natural beauty and shape. A list of certified arborists can be seen at the St Louis Arborists Association website.

Mike Sestric, a certified arborist who works for Trees, Forests, and Landscapes, says their focus is “dedication to tree health and safety with the emphasis on safety when working with trees.” Trees, Forests, and Landscapes is a professional tree care company owned by Bill Spradley, also a certified arborist. For much of their tree work they now use a spider lift. This equipment gives safe access to eighty percent of the trees, a significant increase over the usual thirty to forty percent with conventional bucket trucks. The lightweight spider lift can be maneuvered into tiny spaces and eliminates much of the need for more dangerous climbing.

If you are faced with replacing a large tree that has died, choosing the right tree for the right place is a tremendous first step towards good tree health. Carefully match your tree selection with soil and light condition (dry, wet, sun or shade). If a shade tree is what you desire, consider long-lived native oak trees like bur oak, chinquapin oak, or swamp white oak. All are tolerant of a wide range of soil and light conditions, and contrary to common belief, these species grow quite rapidly. One of my favorite medium-sized trees is the black tupelo tree (Nyssa sylvatica). It has a beautiful rounded shape and striking fall color. Tupelo can grow in soil that is moist since it grows in lowlands in Missouri, although it is equally tolerant of dry soils. Small trees like Ohio buckeye and pawpaw are the best choices for working under utility lines, while redbud, flowering dogwood, and witch hazel work well close to the house. Always check into the tree’s mature height, breadth and cultural requirements before making a decision as to which tree to plant where.

There are so many choices for many conditions that nothing beats a few good resources for tree information. You can find lists, cultural information and photos of recommended trees for Missouri at Grow Native. Lists of both native and non-native trees are available at Missouri Anti-Tree Topping. Some great reference books are Tried and True Missouri Native Plants for Your Yard, Trees of Missouri and Native Landscaping for Wildlife and People. These are all available at the Visitors’ Center at Shaw Nature Reserve and at Powder Valley.

To those who say they contemplate not planting trees at all I answer that a well-chosen, well-maintained tree is not a detriment, it is an asset. The most obvious benefits are that trees provide shade, reduce energy costs and increased property values. Less obvious, but equally as important is that trees offer shelter, nesting sites and, in many cases, food for numerous native birds and mammals.

Cindy Gilberg, horticulturist and Missouri native, founded and ran the garden center at Gilberg Perennial Farms with her husband Doug for 28 years, also teaching classes and workshops on gardening and garden design. She now focuses on garden design, consulting and teaching, and also works part-time in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, emphasizing the use of native plants in home landscaping.

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Native Shrubs and Small Trees

By Cindy Gilberg

Gray Dogwood - Cornus racemosaMissouri is home to a long list of native shrubs and small trees, many of which are prime choices for our landscapes. According to Don Kurz (author of the field guide “Shrubs and Woody Vines of Missouri”), approximately 130 species of small to medium native woody shrubs can be found growing in our state. While this doesn’t include several of the small trees, some are species we might think of as small trees rather than as shrubs. There is a fine line distinguishing between small trees and shrubs – in general, trees have single trunks and are about 20 feet or more in height while shrubs have multiple stems. Of course, gardeners sometimes confuse the situation even more by encouraging multiple stems on small trees and by pruning shrubs into single-stem specimens.

As versatile as they are functional, this group of plants is an integral part of the overall landscape, adding medium-size, year-round structure. Between the canopy of large trees and the herbaceous plants that form the ground layer, shrubs and small trees provide the framework or backbone of the garden. In this way, they are useful in outlining the structure of a space. Many designers use them to create ‘rooms’ within a garden as well, providing enclosure and privacy.

Shrubs and small trees are quite valuable as screening and are an aesthetic alternative to fencing, especially when the fence is not tall enough to successfully block the view. Consider combining groups of different species with varying heights and textures for a more dynamic setting. Repetition of similar forms throughout the view creates rhythm and serves to tie the garden together visually. A few species that work well for screening are hazelnut (Corylus americana), black haw (Viburnum prunifolium), gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa), and ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius). These species are also outstanding choices for planting after invasive honeysuckle is removed, particularly when the invasive bush honeysuckle is functioning as a screen.

Smaller shrubs (three to five feet) can be planted in large masses to form tall ground cover, making a handsome backdrop for shorter herbaceous perennials. A classic look is to have small trees rising up out of these masses, using the ground cover shrubs as an anchor for the scene. A useful list for this situation includes fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica ‘Grow Low’), beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), wild hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and golden currant (Ribes odoratum).

Fragrant sumac - Rhus aromatica ‘Grow Low’

Fragrant sumac - Rhus aromatica ‘Grow Low’

All of these plants can be used as accents in the garden where textural contrast is needed or to punctuate a view. Leatherwood (Dirca palustris) is a lesser known beauty that is slow-growing, reaching an ultimate height of five to six feet. Vernal witch hazel (Hamemalis vernalis) blooms in late winter with dark-yellow flowers that are delightfully fragrant while common witch hazel (H. virginiana) blooms with lemon-yellow flowers in late fall. Both grow 12 to 15 feet tall but give vernal witch hazel lots of space since it grow 15-20 feet wide as well. Both have desirable yellow-orange fall foliar color.

Golden currant - Ribes odoratum

Golden currant - Ribes odoratum

Remember that habitat for birds and other wildlife is best accomplished with a diversity of plants. Make note of when a plant flowers, attractive for both the gardener and pollinating insects. Many have berries, such as dogwoods, viburnums and spice bush (Lindera benzoin), providing additional interest in the garden as well as food for birds. Dense branching of shrubs and small trees also offers cover and potential nesting sites for many birds.

Most gardeners know the classic ‘top ten’ that include dogwood, redbud, serviceberry, fringe tree and winterberry. Just a handful of other worthy options for the landscape are discussed here. The Native Plant School, held at Shaw Nature Reserve, has a new three-part class this year – Native Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs. This is a wonderful way to become familiar with a whole new palette of hardy native plants.

Cindy Gilberg, horticulturist and Missouri native, founded and ran the garden center at Gilberg Perennial Farms with her husband Doug for 28 years, also teaching classes and workshops on gardening and garden design. She now focuses on garden design, consulting and teaching, and also works part-time in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, emphasizing the use of native plants in home landscaping.

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