Eastern Tiger Swallowtail on Blazing Star, photo by Cindy Gilberg

By Cindy Gilberg

(This article was first published in The Gateway Gardener November/December 2011 issue.)

We have all seen landscapes where the only moving object is irrigation equipment or the weekly mowers. Occasionally a passing bird or butterfly can be seen, perhaps lost or on its way to more productive feeding grounds. A species count of birds, butterflies and mammals in this type of landscape would reveal very low numbers. In other words, landscapes such as these are incredibly low in biodiversity of animal species as a direct result of the low number of native plant species.

The human landscape has had a dramatic impact on the natural landscape through loss of habitat. The plants and animals endemic to our region evolved together in a way that sustains them—they depend on each other. Ultimately, humans are also sustained in an environment that is biologically rich. Understanding the habitat requirements of animals is the first step in creating a landscape that is not only visually diverse but one that provides what they need to thrive.

Food

What at first seems obvious and simple requires more in-depth consideration. Food should be available in all seasons, in many forms and from a diversity of native plant species. While insects and some animals compensate for low availability of food in winter months by either finishing their life cycle, migrating or hibernating, there are many others that overwinter here and are active. Choose native berry and nut-producing plants such as winterberry, hawthorn, oaks, hazelnut and Viburnum for those species. One of the most beautiful winter resident birds are the cedar waxwings that come in large flocks to eat the blue berries on my cedar tree. Other plants, including the dogwoods, spicebush, elderberry and chokecherry, offer sustenance in the summer and early fall.

Native plants that produce large amounts of seed are another group to include in your habitat garden. Grasses are high on that list—prairie dropseed, sideoats grama and little bluestem are easily purchased and work well in residential gardens. Purple and orange coneflowers, blazing star, asters and coreopsis are particularly good to include, but don’t stop there. Note that deadheading flowers before or cutting back the garden in fall removes the seed crop for that year.

Insects make up a huge part of the food chain for not only birds but for other insects and many mammals. Oak trees support the most species (over 200!) with the majority of these being insect species. Include flowering plants that provide pollen and nectar in each season for a vast list of insects. Think before spraying a pesticide on that insect feeding on your plant—it plays a vital role in the overall habitat and could be tomorrow’s butterfly.

Shelter and Nesting Sites

A diversity of plants, in particular shrubs and trees, will provide many opportunities for shelter from both predators and weather. The thick branching structure of shrubs and small trees is especially conducive to both shelter and nesting sites for birds in particular. Evergreens such as cedar and holly provide winter shelter for many birds. The foliage of perennials and grasses supplies great material for nest making as well as shelter for smaller birds, insects and mammals.

Water

Water, essential to life, can be supplied in simple ways such as low basins. It is easy to

Water sources like this bubbler are essential for attracting birds. Photo by Cindy Gilberg

make a simple bubbler by drilling a stone and inserting a tube through which water is pumped and trickles out over the surface back into a basin. Pondless waterfalls and even water gardens with water moving over stones all create places for animals of all types to drink and bathe. Some birds prefer a shower to a bath, such as warblers and hummingbirds, and are delighted with a mister. Note that water in the winter should also be offered and will need to be kept from freezing solid with pond or birdbath heaters.

Remember that diversity is the key to a biologically rich habitat garden. Include in your plant palette perennials, grasses, shrubs and trees that produce flowers, seed or fruit throughout the seasons. You will be rewarded with a non-stop show of wildlife to observe and get to know.

Native plants fit into any landscape design scheme. It is you, the gardener/artist, who decides whether the garden is a traditional or a natural design, whether it is formal or wild in appearance.

Resources—this is just a small sampling of what is available!

Bringing Nature Home, by Doug Tallamy

Native Landscaping for Wildlife and People, by Dave Tylka

Birdscaping in the Midwest, by Mariette Nowak

Shaw Nature Reserve (www.shawnature.org) Native Plant School and Native Landscaping Manual Feb and March 2012—book discussions of Doug Tallamy’s Bringing Nature Home in addition to other native landscaping topics

Missouri Botanical Garden – Gardening Blitz March 3, 2012 features Doug Tallamy as the keynote speaker presenting Bringing Nature Home

Missouri Department of Conservation (www.mdc.mo.gov)

St Louis Chapter of Wild Ones (www.stlwildones.org) –dedicated to promoting native landscaping

Xerces Society—promotes invertebrate conservation (www.xerces.org )

Audubon Society—St. Louis Chapter ( www.stlouisaudubon.org )

(This article first appeared in The Gateway Gardener March 2010 issue.)

Highbush blueberry, photo courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden Plantfinder

Growing blueberries is relatively easy once they are established.  As an added bonus, the blueberry shrub provides beautiful fall foliage.  There are many varieties to choose from that range in height, fruiting season, and seasonal temperature tolerances.  For an urban area, I would suggest the mid-high hybrid cultivars that range from 2-4 feet in height.  There are also low-bush varieties that grow 1-2 feet in height. Either size can be used in the landscape as a border or hedge.  Select 2-3 year old plants so you don’t have to wait as long for your bushes to bear fruit.  Blueberries need at least 6 hours of sunlight, so choose a sunny location that is prominent and visible.  Blueberries love acidic soil, so if possible plant near other acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, in your garden.  If you are starting from scratch and your soil is alkaline you will need to dig in some peat moss.

Once planted, be sure to baby them their first year.  Keep them well watered and mulched with oak leaves or pine needles or any other acidic material.  This is also the best time to cover the bushes with netting to protect the blueberries from birds.  Birds can strip blueberries off the plant in no time so take preventive measures now!  You can also use sturdy cage wiring to provide more support for your netting to rest upon.

Pruning is sometimes necessary, but not for another couple of years.  Give them time to establish themselves.  By the time your plants are 4-5 years old they should be producing about 3-5 pounds of fruit per plant depending on the cultivar.  Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.

Depending on the cultivar you choose, plants produce blueberries from June to August.  I would recommend getting a couple of early, mid, and late berry-producing cultivars to extend your blueberry consuming season as long as possible.  Blueberries are ready to harvest when they fall from the bush when gently brushed.  You shouldn’t have to pull them off.  An unripe blueberry is an unripe blueberry.  Once picked, the blueberry will not ripen “off the vine”.  It’s best not to wash the blueberries if you are planning on storing them.  Put them directly into baggies and freeze.

Blueberries are delicious just about any time.  Fresh is always best though.  At my house (if they make it that far) we eat the frozen blueberries for a nice cooling summer snack.

Mara Higdon is the Program Director at Gateway Greening. They focus on community development throughout the St Louis area. You can reach her at (314) 588-9600 x22.

Now it’s hot and dry just like every summer in St Louis and you look at your perennial border and a few sturdy souls stand out. You know the ones that don’t have wilted singed foliage, who still produce fresh flowers, whose color hasn’t faded to almost white or gray. Ever wonder why these can take the dry, warm weather while other plants seem to melt away? It’s all in the roots, at least mostly. Some perennials that adapt well to dryer growing conditions do so because they have deep roots that can find moisture in the greater depths of our soil. In fact these are sometimes harder to grow in a pot because they need the depth to accommodate their huge root systems.

Many of these plants are derived from prairie plants that evolved into long-rooted, drought tolerant varieties. But don’t think that just because they have a native plant heritage, that there will be no maintenance. Any new planting that is starting from plants grown in a pot will require regular watering to get established until the roots have the opportunity to stretch way down below. Excess water on the other hand can cause yellowing leaves, fungus spots and an over abundance of top growth that is hard to maintain in dry months.

Here are some of my favorites for the dry garden:

• Artemisia ‘Silver King’, great silver foliage plant, best kept dry to keep its’ invasive habit under control.

Asclepias tuberosa - Butterfly Milkweed

• Asclepias tuberosa, butterfly weed has wonderful orange flowers that will rebloom if cut back, a nice prairie plant that is essential for a wildlife garden.
• Baptisia australis, lovely blue flowers early in the season followed by wonderful bluish foliage that forms a shrub-like plant that looks great all summer. Plant this where you want it, because you can never move it, its roots go so deep.
• Centaura montana, Another early-season blue bloomer, seeds itself, blooms for months and then maintains nice fuzzy leaves with a gray shading.

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides - Hardy Plumbago

• Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, (hardy plumbago) another marvelous blue flowering plant with an added bonus of bright red fall color.
• Dianthus, especially love the blue/gray grass-like foliage and bright red or pink flowers.

Echinacea purpurea - Pink Coneflower

• Echinacea purpurea, pink coneflower, a native prairie plant that belongs in every garden.
• Echinops, with its spiky flower heads and silvery blue color is hard to beat in the dry cutting garden.
• Epimedium, an underused sturdy little plant that spreads like a groundcover. Has mini-orchid like flowers and heart-shaped leaves on wiry stems. Does well in dry shade.
• Geranium sanguineum, (cranesbill) charming little purple flowers, low and spreading.
• Lychnis coronaria, another butterfly attractor, blooms in early summer.
• Penstemon ‘Huskers Red’, wonderful dark reddish foliage.
• Perovskia (Russian sage), the miracle plant that just keeps looking good in the worst part of the summer. Its only drawback is floppy tendencies, just plant a sturdy neighbor plant and solve your staking problem.
• Solidago (Goldenrod), Wow that’s really yellow. A great native prairie plant used to make fabric dyes.

Combining these plants for a dry garden bed will save water and labor once the plants are established enough to survive that August drought. Remember all new plantings need to be watered enough to keep the plants thriving while they grow deep roots.

Steffie Littlefield is a horticulturist and garden designer at Garden Heights Nursery. She has degrees from St Louis Community College at Meramec and Southeast Missouri State University and is a member of the Gateway Professional Horticulturist Association (GPHA) and past president of the Horticulture Co-op of Metro St Louis.

1. Don’t Top Trees!

Many people think they’re avoiding future potential damage to their homes by having trees especially soft-wooded trees like silver maples and Siberian elms – “topped”, or severely cropped. And, unfortunately, there are plenty of ill-trained tree cutters out there willing to do, and even promoting, this work. Topping stimulates growth of many, vigorous shoots that lead to branches with weak attachments and decay inside the topped stubs. Fast-growing branches will quickly regain the original height, but with even more hazardous branching than the original branches. Topping also results in an unnatural, freakish appearance to the tree, which would be better off removed entirely. A certified professional arborist can recommend alternative methods to topping to reduce potential tree hazards.

2. No Mulch Volcanoes

This is a practice that persists despite ongoing education efforts to eliminate it. You’ve seen them around: those mounds of hardwood mulch piled high against the trunks of landscape trees, sometimes rising to 1-2 ft.! Experts call them mulch volcanoes. They’re so pervasive in the landscape, many people probably think they represent sound tree care practice. They don’t! Mulch piled that high restricts moisture and oxygen from getting to the roots of plants, and promotes disease and insect penetration through the constantly wet bark tissue. It also provides attractive housing for voles that chew on plant roots and tree bark. Never apply mulch more than 3-4″ deep, and never pile it up against the bark of a tree. The oft-used analogy is to think of a donut, when applying your mulch.

3. Avoid Lawn Equipment and Construction Damage

Weed whackers and lawn mowers can cause seemingly insignificant wounds to tree bark, but even the tiniest wound can provide entry to an opportunistic insect or disease pathogen, especially if a tree is already stressed. And heavy construction equipment can damage trees without even touching them, by compacting all the pore space out of the root-zone soil, depriving trees of oxygen, moisture and nutrition. Mulch around trees to avoid lawn equipment damage, and protect the root zone as much as possible during construction.

4. Tree Planting Depth

Sometimes a tree just never has a chance. Poorly planted trees may thrive for a few years, maybe even 10-15 years, then suddenly and for no apparent reason, die. When dug up, it is often apparent that the trees were planted too deep to begin with. Thick roots that appear above the root flair, often circling around and girdling (choking) other roots, are indications of a tree planted too deep. Sometimes, soil can build up around the trunks of trees in the nursery, and may actually be too deep in the root ball or container. Before planting a new tree, do a little digging at the top of the root ball or container to expose the root flair (that portion of the trunk that begins to spread out). Trees should be planted so this root flair is at or slightly about ground level. When digging a hole, never dig deeper than the required depth, as loosened soil can settle, causing a newly planted tree to sink below the desired level.

5. Choose the Right Tree for the Right Spot

One of the most common reasons for premature tree death is simply the result of the wrong tree in the wrong spot. Sun-loving trees in shady conditions and understory shade trees in sunny conditions will always be stressed with potential for disease and early death. The same is true for drought tolerant or moisture-loving trees grown in soils that don’t offer those conditions. Trees that grow too big for their site, either against a building or through power lines, and thus require ongoing pruning, will always be more likely candidates for insect and disease infestation and early death. Always do a little research to discover a tree’s ideal growing conditions, and match trees to the conditions in your landscape to give them the best chance for a long, healthy life.

6. Hire a Certified Arborist for Professional Tree Care

If you’re unsure about any of the suggestions above, or need any other professional tree care service, get advice from a certified professional arborist. An arborist is a professional in the care of trees. A qualified arborist can give you sound advice and can provide the services your trees may need. Good arborists will perform only accepted practices. When choosing an arborist, look for ISA Certification and Credentials, membership in professional associations, and ask for proof of insurance. Be weary of individuals who go door-to-door offering bargains for doing tree work. Don’t be afraid to check references.

Sweet Bell Pepper

Native to the Americas, peppers are a common vegetable used in cooking. High in vitamin C, peppers are available fresh or dried from scorching hot to your basic sweet bell. With Missouri’s hot summer weather, they are relatively easy to grow and come in a rainbow of colors. Try a few varieties, prep your soil and be prepared to test your taste buds.

Start off with healthy transplants that are 6-8 weeks old. Make the transplant holes 3-4 inches deep and about 1½ feet apart in the row. Space the rows at least 2-3 feet apart. Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Move the plants carefully and set them in the transplant holes. Leave as much soil as possible around the roots. Fill the hole with soil and pack it loosely around the plant. Do not cover the roots deeper than the original soil ball and leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. Water the plants after planting.

Be careful when weeding around peppers as they do have shallow roots systems. Consistent watering ensures that your pepper plants have adequate moisture to fend off the heat of summer. Try not to let your pepper plants wilt repeatedly as this is extremely stressful to the plants! It is better to slowly soak the area when watering or you may displace the soil around the roots with a strong blast from the hose.

If you pick your peppers as they mature, your yields will be greater. The first peppers should be ready 8-10 weeks after transplanting. Pick bell peppers when they get shiny, dark green and firm. Harvest hot peppers when they turn red or yellow, depending on the variety. Jalapenos are mature when they reach good size and become a deep, dark green. If you leave green peppers on the plant, most peppers will turn red and are still good to eat.

When handling hot peppers in the kitchen, be careful to wash your hands with soap and water before touching your eyes, nose, or mouth. If you have an abundance of peppers and get tired of them just chop them up (blanch if you like) and store in the freezer for later use! You’ll save money and time when you’re making up that first batch of fall chili.

Mara Higdon is the Program Director at Gateway Greening. They focus on community development throughout the St Louis area.

A big garden trend in recent years is organic gardening. Yet the term organic gardening covers a wide range of practices. The most restrictive definition comes from the USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service, which implemented a National Organic Program in 2002.

The aim of the program is to provide consumer assurance as it supports organic farmers and processors. The steps required to become a certified organic operation include following national organic standards, keeping records of practices and materials used, and having an annual inspection. A three-year transition period is required unless records prove that no prohibited substances were used in or near the production area during the previous three years.

Organic Gardening

Although they could not fulfill the USDA requirements for organic gardening certification, many gardeners are conscientiously trying to garden in what they consider safe and healthful ways. They won’t use any potentially harmful products – chemicals, preservatives, etc. – in their gardening practices. Common sense and environmental concerns are at the heart of their philosophy. They compost and use green manuring techniques. They work at improving soil texture and composition through organic soil amendments, including grass clippings, animal manures, leaves and so forth.

Natural Gardening

Natural gardening is a looser definition that is also called organic gardening by some. These gardeners have a similar basic philosophy to those in the above group but they aren’t as strict in their choices of soil amendments. They will use natural products that are basically organic even if they contain a minimum of preservatives, dyes, etc. Natural soil amendments include such materials as blood meal, bone meal, fish emulsion, kelp spray, and cottonseed meal.

Permaculture and Sustainable Gardening

These terms refer to those growers and gardeners who practice a form of organic gardening that calls for only using materials from their own farms or gardens to recycle by composting and using to improve the soil. They make compost, fertilizers and soil amendments themselves. They will not buy or get organic materials from outside or commercial sources.

Where Does That Leave Most of Us?

Most of us with strong interests in organic gardening practice a combination of things and seem to be heading more toward more strictly organic methods each year. We have learned that healthy soil produces healthy plants. We are learning to substitute compost and low-till practices for deep digging and chemical additives.

We no longer use pesticides, except in extreme cases, preferring to treat harmful insect problems with low impact solution such as sprays of cold water and hand picking. Most of us find that hand weeding and mulching now substitute successfully for herbicides. We are learning that healthy soil life – earth worms and all the many other kinds of soil life – will go far in helping produce vigorous plant life. At the same time, we are learning that excessive soil disruption and chemical fertilizers do not support and encourage healthy soil life – instead, they will destroy it.

Finally

The pluses: Organic gardening practices are less expensive and more lasting than those based upon commercial inorganic products. Gardening is good exercise and there is an exuberant satisfaction in both gardening itself and in seeing the beautiful and tasty results of gardening.

The disadvantages: At the same time, organic gardening takes more time and skill than industrialized gardening practices. Further, dedicated organic gardeners will not use genetically modified seeds that are able to resist pests, a major advantage for both farmers and gardeners.

The final disadvantage to organic gardening is that the majority of consumers do not truly understand the ramifications of organic gardening methods. They often think of organic products as more expensive. Most consumers say they would use more organic products and methods if they knew that they could get effective results for little or no additional cost.

Obviously, there is a need for better education, so take the time to explain to gardening friends why and how you use organic methods.

Barbara Perry Lawton is a writer, author, speaker and photographer. She has served as manager of publications for Missouri Botanical Garden and as weekly garden columnist for the St Louis Post-Dispatch. The author of a number of gardening and natural history books, and contributor to many periodicals, she has earned regional and national honors for her writing and photography. Barbara is also a Master Gardener and volunteers at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St Louis MO.

An integral part of landscape design is incorporation of shrubs and trees. Now is a good time to think of how to include woodies on your property. The single most important attribute for consideration is multiseasonal appeal or they do not merit consideration. For example, lilacs have never appealed to me, because except for brief springtime bloom, the plant structure and foliage has no esthetic value and what is more the foliage often mildews in our climate.

The plants I am suggesting all have year-round appeal, because of texture of foliage, ornamental flowering in spring and early summer and beautiful fall coloring. They are all native plants and totally hardy in our sometimes difficult climate. These aren’t dainty little foundation plants – all are beautiful in a shrub border or for screening or accent.

Fringetree - Chionanthus virginicus

The fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus) can be a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree. It has always been a special favorite of mine, and many years ago I installed one off the front corner of my house in a partially shaded spot at the foot of a downspout. Because it is a member of the olive family, in late spring it comes into bloom with lovely white, fringed, intensely fragrant flowers that scent up the entire yard. The blooms are on old wood in May/June, and in September bluish drupes (fruit) are produced, which are cherished by birds. The foliage turns a lovely yellow in fall. Historically, native Americans used infusions of the bark to treat malaria and topically for wounds. It attains a height of 10-12 feet, and may grow even higher in certain sites.

The spicebush (Lindera benzoin) is another plant that likes moisture. It gets about 8-feet tall and has fragrant yellow flowers or fragrant twigs. Both flowers, twigs and foliage have been used as a spice and for flavoring tea. Both male and female plants are necessary for production of scarlet berries. Birds love this fruit, and the plant has few pests. Since bloom is on old wood, pruning should be done shortly after flowers fade. In fall, the foliage becomes yellow and can spotlight a naturalized site.

Virginia Sweetspire - Itea virginica

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) gets about 5-ft. tall and has arching branches tolerant of part shade or full sun. The fragrant spike-like flowers (racemes) smell of sandalwood and appear in June/July for long bloom. It is loved by bees. Fall foliage is outstanding, ranging from orange to red and lasts into December. The plant is great for massing, likes moisture and does sucker. Prune after bloom. ‘Henry’s Garnet’ is a good cultivar.

With handsome foliage that resembles hawthorn leaves, the stiff-branched black haw (Viburnum prunifolium) makes a great 10-12-ft. statement of its own. Mid-spring bloom consists of rounded white clusters. It is tolerant of sun or light shade. Bluish black fruit loved by birds appear in September/October. The finely toothed foliage changes from bronze to deep red coloration. The bark has had many medicinal uses by native Americans and also in homeopathic medicine. One-caveat – deer love this plant!

Carolina allspice - Calycanthus floridus

Calycanthus floridus, Carolina allspice, as the name suggests, is a lovely shrub possessing fragrant attributes. The maroon straplike flowers in late spring smell of fruit, and the foliage is fragrant when crushed. In fall leaves turn yellow. It can be pruned in late winter, close to ground since bloom forms on new wood. Allow room, shrub grows to 5-6ft. plant close to a sitting area to enjoy its fragrance. At one time, the cinnamon-flavored bark was used for seasoning. Grow in semi shade, morning sun would be perfect.

Sassafras - Sassafras albidum

One of my most favorite trees is our beautiful sassafras (Sassafras albidum). It is beautiful at all times of the year. It is quite difficult to transplant and can be moved only when quite small from a container. Actually, I have successfully transplanted volunteer saplings that were less than 1ft. tall. The trees get 30-60-ft. tall in full sun. Small yellow flowers appear in spring at the ends of twigs before foliage. The distinctive foliage with its mitten-shaped leaves is beautiful indeed, and is attractive to butterflies and moths. Bark and crushed leaves are very aromatic. The bark has been used as a source of orange dye. Young leaves in spring can be gathered and dried, then crushed in a mortar for a source of file powder used in Creole cooking. File is used as a flavor and thickening agent for sauces and liquid. It must not be allowed to boil, however, only stirred into hot liquid. At one time roots were used to make “root beer,” but since they contain safrole, a carcinogen, this practice has been discontinued. The white wood has been used for fence posts, railings and interior woodwork. I have for many years grown a sassafras partially under a pin oak where I have kept it topped and pruned like an umbrella. One is not supposed to top trees, I am well aware, but for this site, it has worked beautifully and I can enjoy it all year from my kitchen window.

Introduce some of our beautiful natives into your landscape.

Joyce Driemeyer says she’s semi-retired after more than 25 years as a professional landscape designer. She is a Master Gardener, and volunteers, lectures and conducts classes at Missouri Botanical Garden, and has actively served in both the St Louis Herb Society and The Herb Society of America.

Missouri tests our trees with its ice storms, rain storms and high winds. Some of these events have left damaged trees, but, for the most part, healthy, well-maintained trees have survived these tempests. Even so, many homeowners and some tree service companies have chosen to top trees (the severe removal of the top branches in mature trees) to prevent storm damage to houses. Tree topping, however, (also known as studding, heading or lopping) creates weaker branches and potential for diseases that can kill the whole tree. In the long run, especially when the tree dies and needs to be replaced, tree topping can actually cost you more in labor and dollars. If you are considering tree topping, please read on. You may want to consider having your tree evaluated first. It will likely save you money in the long run.

The Missouri Anti-Tree Topping Campaign was formed to provide quality information for anyone who has trees. You can call 1-877-406-6867, talk to a real person (Really! I tried it a number of times) and have information sent.

When you are ready to select a tree care specialist, use only a certified arborist whose job it is to promote a well-maintained, long-lived tree. Proper pruning and care results in a healthy tree that has natural beauty and shape. A list of certified arborists can be seen at the St Louis Arborists Association website.

Mike Sestric, a certified arborist who works for Trees, Forests, and Landscapes, says their focus is “dedication to tree health and safety with the emphasis on safety when working with trees.” Trees, Forests, and Landscapes is a professional tree care company owned by Bill Spradley, also a certified arborist. For much of their tree work they now use a spider lift. This equipment gives safe access to eighty percent of the trees, a significant increase over the usual thirty to forty percent with conventional bucket trucks. The lightweight spider lift can be maneuvered into tiny spaces and eliminates much of the need for more dangerous climbing.

If you are faced with replacing a large tree that has died, choosing the right tree for the right place is a tremendous first step towards good tree health. Carefully match your tree selection with soil and light condition (dry, wet, sun or shade). If a shade tree is what you desire, consider long-lived native oak trees like bur oak, chinquapin oak, or swamp white oak. All are tolerant of a wide range of soil and light conditions, and contrary to common belief, these species grow quite rapidly. One of my favorite medium-sized trees is the black tupelo tree (Nyssa sylvatica). It has a beautiful rounded shape and striking fall color. Tupelo can grow in soil that is moist since it grows in lowlands in Missouri, although it is equally tolerant of dry soils. Small trees like Ohio buckeye and pawpaw are the best choices for working under utility lines, while redbud, flowering dogwood, and witch hazel work well close to the house. Always check into the tree’s mature height, breadth and cultural requirements before making a decision as to which tree to plant where.

There are so many choices for many conditions that nothing beats a few good resources for tree information. You can find lists, cultural information and photos of recommended trees for Missouri at Grow Native. Lists of both native and non-native trees are available at Missouri Anti-Tree Topping. Some great reference books are Tried and True Missouri Native Plants for Your Yard, Trees of Missouri and Native Landscaping for Wildlife and People. These are all available at the Visitors’ Center at Shaw Nature Reserve and at Powder Valley.

To those who say they contemplate not planting trees at all I answer that a well-chosen, well-maintained tree is not a detriment, it is an asset. The most obvious benefits are that trees provide shade, reduce energy costs and increased property values. Less obvious, but equally as important is that trees offer shelter, nesting sites and, in many cases, food for numerous native birds and mammals.

Cindy Gilberg, horticulturist and Missouri native, founded and ran the garden center at Gilberg Perennial Farms with her husband Doug for 28 years, also teaching classes and workshops on gardening and garden design. She now focuses on garden design, consulting and teaching, and also works part-time in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, emphasizing the use of native plants in home landscaping.

Missouri is home to a long list of native shrubs and small trees, many of which are prime choices for our landscapes. According to Don Kurz (author of the field guide “Shrubs and Woody Vines of Missouri”), approximately 130 species of small to medium native woody shrubs can be found growing in our state. While this doesn’t include several of the small trees, some are species we might think of as small trees rather than as shrubs. There is a fine line distinguishing between small trees and shrubs – in general, trees have single trunks and are about 20 feet or more in height while shrubs have multiple stems. Of course, gardeners sometimes confuse the situation even more by encouraging multiple stems on small trees and by pruning shrubs into single-stem specimens.

As versatile as they are functional, this group of plants is an integral part of the overall landscape, adding medium-size, year-round structure. Between the canopy of large trees and the herbaceous plants that form the ground layer, shrubs and small trees provide the framework or backbone of the garden. In this way, they are useful in outlining the structure of a space. Many designers use them to create ‘rooms’ within a garden as well, providing enclosure and privacy.

Shrubs and small trees are quite valuable as screening and are an aesthetic alternative to fencing, especially when the fence is not tall enough to successfully block the view. Consider combining groups of different species with varying heights and textures for a more dynamic setting. Repetition of similar forms throughout the view creates rhythm and serves to tie the garden together visually. A few species that work well for screening are hazelnut (Corylus americana), black haw (Viburnum prunifolium), gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa), and ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius). These species are also outstanding choices for planting after invasive honeysuckle is removed, particularly when the invasive bush honeysuckle is functioning as a screen.

Smaller shrubs (three to five feet) can be planted in large masses to form tall ground cover, making a handsome backdrop for shorter herbaceous perennials. A classic look is to have small trees rising up out of these masses, using the ground cover shrubs as an anchor for the scene. A useful list for this situation includes fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica ‘Grow Low’), beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), wild hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and golden currant (Ribes odoratum).

Fragrant sumac - Rhus aromatica ‘Grow Low’

All of these plants can be used as accents in the garden where textural contrast is needed or to punctuate a view. Leatherwood (Dirca palustris) is a lesser known beauty that is slow-growing, reaching an ultimate height of five to six feet. Vernal witch hazel (Hamemalis vernalis) blooms in late winter with dark-yellow flowers that are delightfully fragrant while common witch hazel (H. virginiana) blooms with lemon-yellow flowers in late fall. Both grow 12 to 15 feet tall but give vernal witch hazel lots of space since it grow 15-20 feet wide as well. Both have desirable yellow-orange fall foliar color.

Golden currant - Ribes odoratum

Remember that habitat for birds and other wildlife is best accomplished with a diversity of plants. Make note of when a plant flowers, attractive for both the gardener and pollinating insects. Many have berries, such as dogwoods, viburnums and spice bush (Lindera benzoin), providing additional interest in the garden as well as food for birds. Dense branching of shrubs and small trees also offers cover and potential nesting sites for many birds.

Most gardeners know the classic ‘top ten’ that include dogwood, redbud, serviceberry, fringe tree and winterberry. Just a handful of other worthy options for the landscape are discussed here. The Native Plant School, held at Shaw Nature Reserve, has a new three-part class this year – Native Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs. This is a wonderful way to become familiar with a whole new palette of hardy native plants.

Cindy Gilberg, horticulturist and Missouri native, founded and ran the garden center at Gilberg Perennial Farms with her husband Doug for 28 years, also teaching classes and workshops on gardening and garden design. She now focuses on garden design, consulting and teaching, and also works part-time in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, emphasizing the use of native plants in home landscaping.

Most gardeners think of winter as down time. The only thing that’s down are the leaves, allowing the opportunity to view the more subtle beauty of the garden. Look outside your window. What do you see? Perhaps a better question would be what don’t you see. Yes, gone are the colorful flowers of spring and summer. Is color missing from your winter garden? Get to know some of our native shrubs and trees that have bountiful crops of berries in the fall and winter months. Adding these into your landscape will provide the sparks your garden may need in this season.

These native plants produce autumn crops of berries with the sole purpose of attracting birds and small mammals. Animals depend on this late fall and winter source of food and the plants depend on the animals for seed dispersal – it’s a win-win situation. Because of this relationship, the berries are noticeable and colorful. Additional color and animation will be introduced into the garden in the form of Missouri’s many winter songbirds that forage for these small fruits.

Winterberry - Ilex verticillata

Perhaps the best known is the deciduous holly, also called winterberry (Ilex verticillata). Many horticultural cultivars have been introduced in recent years including ‘Red Sprite’ (a dwarf form), ‘Winter Red’ and ‘Winter Gold’. The native winterberry is spectacular, sporting many brilliant, red clusters of berries on its branches from late fall through the winter months. It forms a dense shrub that can grow to twenty feet or so.

The possum haw (Ilex decidua), a close relative of winterberry, is a multi-trunk, small tree that grows taller, to a height of about thirty feet. This is the more commonly encountered species in Missouri. In appearance and culture, possum haw is very similar to winterberry.

Yet one more Ilex, though wild populations are rare, is the American holly (Ilex opaca). The red berries are set against evergreen leaves making it doubly attractive and quite desirable in the winter landscape. Hundreds of horticultural varieties of this species exist and its branches are a common and welcome sight during the winter season.

All hollies (Ilex) tend to be dioecious, meaning the plants are either predominantly male or female. To ensure an abundant crop of fruit, locate a male plant in close proximity to the female plants. The various species are similar in their cultural requirements – they prefer an average-to-moist location and are tolerant of light-to-partial shade locations.

Hawthorns (Crataegus) are members of the rose family (Rosaceae) and are represented in Missouri with up to fifty naturally occurring species. The downy hawthorn (Crataegus mollis) is the official state flower of Missouri. All hawthorns have clusters of white rose-like flowers in mid-spring and can be quite showy. Like their cousins, the roses, all have thorns so use caution if you are in the pruning mood. It is in the fall and winter months that these small (to twenty feet) tough trees show off with bright orange or red berries. These fruits, not tasty when eaten raw, do make excellent jam or jelly if the birds don’t beat you to them. Native populations of hawthorns are typically found in open woodlands (light to partial shade) and are tolerant of average, dry soil. One of the hawthorns however, the green hawthorn (C. viridis), occurs naturally in low, wet areas and so grows happily in moist soils.

Wahoo - Euonymous atropurpureus

Most gardeners associate the name Euonymous with the evergreen ground cover that has lost popularity and become a nuisance in recent years. Yet Euonymous atropurpureus, known as wahoo, is not only fun to say but also an intriguing plant in the garden. In early fall, pink capsules appear, suspended on long stems like dangling earrings. After the first frost, these capsules pop open to reveal the scarlet fruit. Wahoo will sprout from the roots and produces a multi-trunk shrub-like form. This thick suckering habit makes it useful as a hedge in light shade. Growing naturally on wooded slopes and along streams, it is at home in the shade garden in both dry and moist soils.

So next time you meditate over a cup of coffee and gaze at your garden, imagine some of these native plants embellishing the winter scene. Imagine also the abundance of birds outside your window, enjoying a profusion of natural foods.

Cindy Gilberg, horticulturist and Missouri native, founded and ran the garden center at Gilberg Perennial Farms with her husband Doug for 28 years, also teaching classes and workshops on gardening and garden design. She now focuses on garden design, consulting and teaching, and also works part-time in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve, emphasizing the use of native plants in home landscaping.