Creating a Habitat Garden

a photo of the eastern tiger swallowtail butterfly on blazing star

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail on Blazing Star, photo by Cindy Gilberg

By Cindy Gilberg

(This article was first published in The Gateway Gardener November/December 2011 issue.)

We have all seen landscapes where the only moving object is irrigation equipment or the weekly mowers. Occasionally a passing bird or butterfly can be seen, perhaps lost or on its way to more productive feeding grounds. A species count of birds, butterflies and mammals in this type of landscape would reveal very low numbers. In other words, landscapes such as these are incredibly low in biodiversity of animal species as a direct result of the low number of native plant species. Continue reading

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Blueberries

By Mara Higdon

(This article first appeared in The Gateway Gardener March 2010 issue.)
a photo of berries on highbush blueberry

Highbush blueberry, photo courtesy Missouri Botanical Garden Plantfinder

Growing blueberries is relatively easy once they are established.  As an added bonus, the blueberry shrub provides beautiful fall foliage.  There are many varieties to choose from that range in height, fruiting season, and seasonal temperature tolerances.  For an urban area, I would suggest the mid-high hybrid cultivars that range from 2-4 feet in height.  There are also low-bush varieties that grow 1-2 feet in height. Either size can be used in the landscape as a border or hedge.  Select 2-3 year old plants so you don’t have to wait as long for your bushes to bear fruit.  Continue reading

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Save Water, Plant a Dry Garden

By Steffie Littlefield

Lychnis coronariaNow it’s hot and dry just like every summer in St Louis and you look at your perennial border and a few sturdy souls stand out. You know the ones that don’t have wilted singed foliage, who still produce fresh flowers, whose color hasn’t faded to almost white or gray. Ever wonder why these can take the dry, warm weather while other plants seem to melt away? It’s all in the roots, at least mostly. Some perennials that adapt well to dryer growing conditions do so because they have deep roots that can find moisture in the greater depths of our soil. In fact these are sometimes harder to grow in a pot because they need the depth to accommodate their huge root systems.

Many of these plants are derived from prairie plants that evolved into long-rooted, drought tolerant varieties. But don’t think that just because they have a native plant heritage, that there will be no maintenance. Any new planting that is starting from plants grown in a pot will require regular watering to get established until the roots have the opportunity to stretch way down below. Excess water on the other hand can cause yellowing leaves, fungus spots and an over abundance of top growth that is hard to maintain in dry months.

Here are some of my favorites for the dry garden:

  • Artemisia ‘Silver King’, great silver foliage plant, best kept dry to keep its’ invasive habit under control.
Asclepias tuberosa -  Butterfly Milkweed

Asclepias tuberosa - Butterfly Milkweed

  • Asclepias tuberosa, butterfly weed has wonderful orange flowers that will rebloom if cut back, a nice prairie plant that is essential for a wildlife garden.
  • Baptisia australis, lovely blue flowers early in the season followed by wonderful bluish foliage that forms a shrub-like plant that looks great all summer. Plant this where you want it, because you can never move it, its roots go so deep.
  • Centaura montana, Another early-season blue bloomer, seeds itself, blooms for months and then maintains nice fuzzy leaves with a gray shading.
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides - Hardy Plumbago

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides - Hardy Plumbago

  • Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, (hardy plumbago) another marvelous blue flowering plant with an added bonus of bright red fall color.
  • Dianthus, especially love the blue/gray grass-like foliage and bright red or pink flowers.
Echinacea purpurea - Pink Coneflower

Echinacea purpurea - Pink Coneflower

  • Echinacea purpurea, pink coneflower, a native prairie plant that belongs in every garden.
  • Echinops, with its spiky flower heads and silvery blue color is hard to beat in the dry cutting garden.
  • Epimedium, an underused sturdy little plant that spreads like a groundcover. Has mini-orchid like flowers and heart-shaped leaves on wiry stems. Does well in dry shade.
  • Geranium sanguineum, (cranesbill) charming little purple flowers, low and spreading.
  • Lychnis coronaria, another butterfly attractor, blooms in early summer.
  • Penstemon ‘Huskers Red’, wonderful dark reddish foliage.
  • Perovskia (Russian sage), the miracle plant that just keeps looking good in the worst part of the summer. Its only drawback is floppy tendencies, just plant a sturdy neighbor plant and solve your staking problem.
  • Solidago (Goldenrod), Wow that’s really yellow. A great native prairie plant used to make fabric dyes.

Combining these plants for a dry garden bed will save water and labor once the plants are established enough to survive that August drought. Remember all new plantings need to be watered enough to keep the plants thriving while they grow deep roots.

Steffie Littlefield is a horticulturist and garden designer at Garden Heights Nursery. She has degrees from St Louis Community College at Meramec and Southeast Missouri State University and is a member of the Gateway Professional Horticulturist Association (GPHA) and past president of the Horticulture Co-op of Metro St Louis.

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Top 6 Tips for Good Tree Health

Missouri TreesSince we have the world’s best arborists descending upon St Louis this month, we thought we’d check in with some of the local talent to get some advice on keeping trees healthy in the St Louis area. Here are 5 tips given to us by members of the St Louis Arborists Association. Oh, and the 6th tip we added on our own, courtesy of the International Society of Arboriculture.

1. Don’t Top Trees!

Many people think they’re avoiding future potential damage to their homes by having trees especially soft-wooded trees like silver maples and Siberian elms – “topped”, or severely cropped. And, unfortunately, there are plenty of ill-trained tree cutters out there willing to do, and even promoting, this work. Topping stimulates growth of many, vigorous shoots that lead to branches with weak attachments and decay inside the topped stubs. Fast-growing branches will quickly regain the original height, but with even more hazardous branching than the original branches. Topping also results in an unnatural, freakish appearance to the tree, which would be better off removed entirely. A certified professional arborist can recommend alternative methods to topping to reduce potential tree hazards.

2. No Mulch Volcanoes

This is a practice that persists despite ongoing education efforts to eliminate it. You’ve seen them around: those mounds of hardwood mulch piled high against the trunks of landscape trees, sometimes rising to 1-2 ft.! Experts call them mulch volcanoes. They’re so pervasive in the landscape, many people probably think they represent sound tree care practice. They don’t! Mulch piled that high restricts moisture and oxygen from getting to the roots of plants, and promotes disease and insect penetration through the constantly wet bark tissue. It also provides attractive housing for voles that chew on plant roots and tree bark. Never apply mulch more than 3-4″ deep, and never pile it up against the bark of a tree. The oft-used analogy is to think of a donut, when applying your mulch.

3. Avoid Lawn Equipment and Construction Damage

Weed whackers and lawn mowers can cause seemingly insignificant wounds to tree bark, but even the tiniest wound can provide entry to an opportunistic insect or disease pathogen, especially if a tree is already stressed. And heavy construction equipment can damage trees without even touching them, by compacting all the pore space out of the root-zone soil, depriving trees of oxygen, moisture and nutrition. Mulch around trees to avoid lawn equipment damage, and protect the root zone as much as possible during construction.

4. Tree Planting Depth

Sometimes a tree just never has a chance. Poorly planted trees may thrive for a few years, maybe even 10-15 years, then suddenly and for no apparent reason, die. When dug up, it is often apparent that the trees were planted too deep to begin with. Thick roots that appear above the root flair, often circling around and girdling (choking) other roots, are indications of a tree planted too deep. Sometimes, soil can build up around the trunks of trees in the nursery, and may actually be too deep in the root ball or container. Before planting a new tree, do a little digging at the top of the root ball or container to expose the root flair (that portion of the trunk that begins to spread out). Trees should be planted so this root flair is at or slightly about ground level. When digging a hole, never dig deeper than the required depth, as loosened soil can settle, causing a newly planted tree to sink below the desired level.

5. Choose the Right Tree for the Right Spot

One of the most common reasons for premature tree death is simply the result of the wrong tree in the wrong spot. Sun-loving trees in shady conditions and understory shade trees in sunny conditions will always be stressed with potential for disease and early death. The same is true for drought tolerant or moisture-loving trees grown in soils that don’t offer those conditions. Trees that grow too big for their site, either against a building or through power lines, and thus require ongoing pruning, will always be more likely candidates for insect and disease infestation and early death. Always do a little research to discover a tree’s ideal growing conditions, and match trees to the conditions in your landscape to give them the best chance for a long, healthy life.

6. Hire a Certified Arborist for Professional Tree Care

If you’re unsure about any of the suggestions above, or need any other professional tree care service, get advice from a certified professional arborist. An arborist is a professional in the care of trees. A qualified arborist can give you sound advice and can provide the services your trees may need. Good arborists will perform only accepted practices. When choosing an arborist, look for ISA Certification and Credentials, membership in professional associations, and ask for proof of insurance. Be weary of individuals who go door-to-door offering bargains for doing tree work. Don’t be afraid to check references.

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Peppers are HOT (or NOT)!

By Mara Higdon

Sweet Bell Pepper

Sweet Bell Pepper

Native to the Americas, peppers are a common vegetable used in cooking. High in vitamin C, peppers are available fresh or dried from scorching hot to your basic sweet bell. With Missouri’s hot summer weather, they are relatively easy to grow and come in a rainbow of colors. Try a few varieties, prep your soil and be prepared to test your taste buds.

Start off with healthy transplants that are 6-8 weeks old. Make the transplant holes 3-4 inches deep and about 1½ feet apart in the row. Space the rows at least 2-3 feet apart. Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Move the plants carefully and set them in the transplant holes. Leave as much soil as possible around the roots. Fill the hole with soil and pack it loosely around the plant. Do not cover the roots deeper than the original soil ball and leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. Water the plants after planting.

Be careful when weeding around peppers as they do have shallow roots systems. Consistent watering ensures that your pepper plants have adequate moisture to fend off the heat of summer. Try not to let your pepper plants wilt repeatedly as this is extremely stressful to the plants! It is better to slowly soak the area when watering or you may displace the soil around the roots with a strong blast from the hose.

If you pick your peppers as they mature, your yields will be greater. The first peppers should be ready 8-10 weeks after transplanting. Pick bell peppers when they get shiny, dark green and firm. Harvest hot peppers when they turn red or yellow, depending on the variety. Jalapenos are mature when they reach good size and become a deep, dark green. If you leave green peppers on the plant, most peppers will turn red and are still good to eat.

When handling hot peppers in the kitchen, be careful to wash your hands with soap and water before touching your eyes, nose, or mouth. If you have an abundance of peppers and get tired of them just chop them up (blanch if you like) and store in the freezer for later use! You’ll save money and time when you’re making up that first batch of fall chili.

Mara Higdon is the Program Director at Gateway Greening. They focus on community development throughout the St Louis area.

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Organic Gardening Defined

By Barbara Perry Lawton

Organic GardeningA big garden trend in recent years is organic gardening. Yet the term organic gardening covers a wide range of practices. The most restrictive definition comes from the USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service, which implemented a National Organic Program in 2002.

The aim of the program is to provide consumer assurance as it supports organic farmers and processors. The steps required to become a certified organic operation include following national organic standards, keeping records of practices and materials used, and having an annual inspection. A three-year transition period is required unless records prove that no prohibited substances were used in or near the production area during the previous three years.

Organic Gardening

Although they could not fulfill the USDA requirements for organic gardening certification, many gardeners are conscientiously trying to garden in what they consider safe and healthful ways. They won’t use any potentially harmful products – chemicals, preservatives, etc. – in their gardening practices. Common sense and environmental concerns are at the heart of their philosophy. They compost and use green manuring techniques. They work at improving soil texture and composition through organic soil amendments, including grass clippings, animal manures, leaves and so forth.

Natural Gardening

Natural gardening is a looser definition that is also called organic gardening by some. These gardeners have a similar basic philosophy to those in the above group but they aren’t as strict in their choices of soil amendments. They will use natural products that are basically organic even if they contain a minimum of preservatives, dyes, etc. Natural soil amendments include such materials as blood meal, bone meal, fish emulsion, kelp spray, and cottonseed meal.

Permaculture and Sustainable Gardening

These terms refer to those growers and gardeners who practice a form of organic gardening that calls for only using materials from their own farms or gardens to recycle by composting and using to improve the soil. They make compost, fertilizers and soil amendments themselves. They will not buy or get organic materials from outside or commercial sources.

Where Does That Leave Most of Us?

Most of us with strong interests in organic gardening practice a combination of things and seem to be heading more toward more strictly organic methods each year. We have learned that healthy soil produces healthy plants. We are learning to substitute compost and low-till practices for deep digging and chemical additives.

We no longer use pesticides, except in extreme cases, preferring to treat harmful insect problems with low impact solution such as sprays of cold water and hand picking. Most of us find that hand weeding and mulching now substitute successfully for herbicides. We are learning that healthy soil life – earth worms and all the many other kinds of soil life – will go far in helping produce vigorous plant life. At the same time, we are learning that excessive soil disruption and chemical fertilizers do not support and encourage healthy soil life – instead, they will destroy it.

Finally

The pluses: Organic gardening practices are less expensive and more lasting than those based upon commercial inorganic products. Gardening is good exercise and there is an exuberant satisfaction in both gardening itself and in seeing the beautiful and tasty results of gardening.

The disadvantages: At the same time, organic gardening takes more time and skill than industrialized gardening practices. Further, dedicated organic gardeners will not use genetically modified seeds that are able to resist pests, a major advantage for both farmers and gardeners.

The final disadvantage to organic gardening is that the majority of consumers do not truly understand the ramifications of organic gardening methods. They often think of organic products as more expensive. Most consumers say they would use more organic products and methods if they knew that they could get effective results for little or no additional cost.

Obviously, there is a need for better education, so take the time to explain to gardening friends why and how you use organic methods.

Barbara Perry Lawton is a writer, author, speaker and photographer. She has served as manager of publications for Missouri Botanical Garden and as weekly garden columnist for the St Louis Post-Dispatch. The author of a number of gardening and natural history books, and contributor to many periodicals, she has earned regional and national honors for her writing and photography. Barbara is also a Master Gardener and volunteers at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St Louis MO.

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Landscaping with Woody Herbs

By Joyce Driemeyer

Spicebush - Lindera benzoinAn integral part of landscape design is incorporation of shrubs and trees. Now is a good time to think of how to include woodies on your property. The single most important attribute for consideration is multiseasonal appeal or they do not merit consideration. For example, lilacs have never appealed to me, because except for brief springtime bloom, the plant structure and foliage has no esthetic value and what is more the foliage often mildews in our climate.

The plants I am suggesting all have year-round appeal, because of texture of foliage, ornamental flowering in spring and early summer and beautiful fall coloring. They are all native plants and totally hardy in our sometimes difficult climate. These aren’t dainty little foundation plants – all are beautiful in a shrub border or for screening or accent.

Fringetree - Chionanthus virginicus

Fringetree - Chionanthus virginicus

The fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus) can be a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree. It has always been a special favorite of mine, and many years ago I installed one off the front corner of my house in a partially shaded spot at the foot of a downspout. Because it is a member of the olive family, in late spring it comes into bloom with lovely white, fringed, intensely fragrant flowers that scent up the entire yard. The blooms are on old wood in May/June, and in September bluish drupes (fruit) are produced, which are cherished by birds. The foliage turns a lovely yellow in fall. Historically, native Americans used infusions of the bark to treat malaria and topically for wounds. It attains a height of 10-12 feet, and may grow even higher in certain sites.

The spicebush (Lindera benzoin) is another plant that likes moisture. It gets about 8-feet tall and has fragrant yellow flowers or fragrant twigs. Both flowers, twigs and foliage have been used as a spice and for flavoring tea. Both male and female plants are necessary for production of scarlet berries. Birds love this fruit, and the plant has few pests. Since bloom is on old wood, pruning should be done shortly after flowers fade. In fall, the foliage becomes yellow and can spotlight a naturalized site.

Virginia sweetspire - Itea virginica

Virginia Sweetspire - Itea virginica

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) gets about 5-ft. tall and has arching branches tolerant of part shade or full sun. The fragrant spike-like flowers (racemes) smell of sandalwood and appear in June/July for long bloom. It is loved by bees. Fall foliage is outstanding, ranging from orange to red and lasts into December. The plant is great for massing, likes moisture and does sucker. Prune after bloom. ‘Henry’s Garnet’ is a good cultivar.

With handsome foliage that resembles hawthorn leaves, the stiff-branched black haw (Viburnum prunifolium) makes a great 10-12-ft. statement of its own. Mid-spring bloom consists of rounded white clusters. It is tolerant of sun or light shade. Bluish black fruit loved by birds appear in September/October. The finely toothed foliage changes from bronze to deep red coloration. The bark has had many medicinal uses by native Americans and also in homeopathic medicine. One-caveat – deer love this plant!

Carolina allspice - Calycanthus floridus

Carolina allspice - Calycanthus floridus

Calycanthus floridus, Carolina allspice, as the name suggests, is a lovely shrub possessing fragrant attributes. The maroon straplike flowers in late spring smell of fruit, and the foliage is fragrant when crushed. In fall leaves turn yellow. It can be pruned in late winter, close to ground since bloom forms on new wood. Allow room, shrub grows to 5-6ft. plant close to a sitting area to enjoy its fragrance. At one time, the cinnamon-flavored bark was used for seasoning. Grow in semi shade, morning sun would be perfect.

Sassafras - Sassafras albidum

Sassafras - Sassafras albidum

One of my most favorite trees is our beautiful sassafras (Sassafras albidum). It is beautiful at all times of the year. It is quite difficult to transplant and can be moved only when quite small from a container. Actually, I have successfully transplanted volunteer saplings that were less than 1ft. tall. The trees get 30-60-ft. tall in full sun. Small yellow flowers appear in spring at the ends of twigs before foliage. The distinctive foliage with its mitten-shaped leaves is beautiful indeed, and is attractive to butterflies and moths. Bark and crushed leaves are very aromatic. The bark has been used as a source of orange dye. Young leaves in spring can be gathered and dried, then crushed in a mortar for a source of file powder used in Creole cooking. File is used as a flavor and thickening agent for sauces and liquid. It must not be allowed to boil, however, only stirred into hot liquid. At one time roots were used to make “root beer,” but since they contain safrole, a carcinogen, this practice has been discontinued. The white wood has been used for fence posts, railings and interior woodwork. I have for many years grown a sassafras partially under a pin oak where I have kept it topped and pruned like an umbrella. One is not supposed to top trees, I am well aware, but for this site, it has worked beautifully and I can enjoy it all year from my kitchen window.

Introduce some of our beautiful natives into your landscape.

Joyce Driemeyer says she’s semi-retired after more than 25 years as a professional landscape designer. She is a Master Gardener, and volunteers, lectures and conducts classes at Missouri Botanical Garden, and has actively served in both the St Louis Herb Society and The Herb Society of America.

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